Fashion Stylists

Stylists have become increasingly influential in shaping fashion imagery. They have moved from the backstage, as unrecognised players, to the frontstage of fashion, becoming celebrated for their creative work as image makers for magazines, advertising and fashion designers. Yet little is known about the profession, its diverse incarnations and its aesthetic economy. Featuring contributions from leading experts and stylists, this collection is the first to explore the history, meaning and practice of fashion styling through interviews and historic and present-day case studies. Featuring in-depth contributions from prominent fashion scholars, chapters span historical periods, cultural contexts and theoretical frameworks, employing a range of methodologies in the international case studies upon which they're based. Interspersed with interviews with innovative fashion stylists working today, and drawing on examples from advertising, the catwalk and magazines, this book explores the challenges faced by stylists in a fashion system increasingly shaped by commercial pressures and by growing numbers of collections and seasons. Fashion Stylists is an invaluable resource for students and professionals interested in image-making, the representation of style and fashion, entrepreneurship and the history of fashion professionals.

Ane Lynge-Jorlén is an independent fashion scholar, author of Niche Fashion Magazines and Director of Designers' Nest, a talent incubator for Nordic fashion graduates.

List of Illustrations List of Plates Notes on Contributors Acknowledgements Introduction: Fashion Stylists. History, Meaning and Practice By Ane Lynge-Jorlén Part 1: History and Profession of the Stylist Within and Beyond Magazines Chapter 1. Stylist: Etymology and History of a Role By Philip Clarke Chapter 2. In the Changing Room: A study of the act of styling before 'styling' in Danish fashion, 1900-1965 By Marie Riegels Melchior Chapter 3. The Homeless and The Hunchback. Experimental Styling, Assembled Bodies and New Material Aesthetics in Niche Fashion Magazines By Ane Lynge-Jorlén Chapter 4. Examining Uncertainty: An interview with Anders Sølvsten Thomsen By Susanne Madsen Chapter 5. Finding Beauty in the Moment: An interview with Elizabeth Fraser-Bell By Susanne Madsen Chapter 6. Styling Unpopular Knowledge: An Interview with Akeem Smith By Jeppe Ugelvig Part 2: Identity, Gender, Ethnicity and Style Narratives Chapter 7. 'Rethinking Fashion': Caroline Baker and Nova Magazine 1967- 1975 By Alice Beard Chapter 8. 'Looking Good in a Buffalo Stance': Ray Petri and the Styling of New Masculinities By Shaun Cole Chapter 9. Styling '90s Hip-Hop, Fashioning Black Futures By Rachel Lifter Chapter 10. Questioning Fashion's Parameters: An Interview with Benjamin Kirchhoff By Susanne Madsen Chapter 11. Exploring the Female Gaze: An Interview with Roxane Danset By Francesca Granata Chapter 12. Building Little Sculptures: An Interview with Vanessa Reid By Susanne Madsen Part 3: Global Fashion Media and Geographies of Styling Practices Chapter 13. The Stylist's Trade: Fashion Styling in Milan in an Era of Digitisation By Paolo Volonté Chapter 14. Commercial Styling. An Ethnographic Study on Styling Practices at H&M By Philip Warkander Chapter 15. Twisting References: An Interview with Lotta Volkova By Susanne Madsen Chapter 16. Creating Orderly Chaos: An Interview with Naomi Itkes By Maria Ben Saad Index