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For centuries, the creation of Jacquard cloth required the collaborative efforts of teams of designers and technicians working on vastly complex equipment. In the past three decades, developments in loom technology and CAD systems have made it possible for a single individual to design and produce this most challenging class of textiles. Digital Jacquard Design presents a comprehensive introduction to the creation of weave patterning in the era of digitally piloted looms. It offers both aesthetic and technical training for students of figured weaving, covering the Jacquard medium in fantastic breadth and depth. The book is an essential guide for all who create figured textiles with modern materials and tools, and provides the reader with a 'digital' key to access and employ the great textile traditions of the past. Digital Jacquard Design examines the design process from end to end, progressing from visual analysis, sample analysis and weave-drafting methods, to figuring techniques and the selection and building of weaves. It provides a guide to converting traditional drafts to digital polychrome format, a design terminology and a weave glossary. The book concludes with a rich set of case studies to demonstrate ingenious and effective weave and design solutions.
Julie Holyoke is affiliated with the Lisio Foundation, Florence, Italy. A pioneer in the use of digital technologies for wovens, she has worked for three decades as an educator at universities and mills in Italy and beyond, while designing interiors and fashion textiles for both industrial and handwoven productions.
Acknowledgments and Abbreviations Introduction Part One: The Designer's Skill Set Visual Analysis: Identifying Contrasts Sample Analysis and Documentation: Structure and Design Weave Drafting Methods: Recording, Designing and Reading Weaves Part Two: Technology, Process, Technique Weave-patterning Technology in the Digital Era Design Process and Terminology, from Sketch to Card Figuring Techniques Part Three: Woven Structure, Design and the Jacquard Medium Weave Glossary, Choosing and Building Weaves, Evaluating Weaves Which Comes First: Technique or Design? Case Studies Notes Bibliography Contributors Photography and Illustrations Index
