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This book analyzes the fundamental aspects of graphically depicting a wide variety of jewelry: the relationships of volume, balance between full and empty, treatment of metal surfaces, materials and chiaroscuro play. The goal is not to show finished pieces of jewelry but to provide the tools that will enable readers to acquire a work method that allows them to represent their ideas effectively.
Manuela Brambatti began her career in the fashion world in the late seventies working for Style and other fashion magazines. She has collaborated with Giorgio Correggiari, Krizia and Gian Marco Venturi, but her most important and far-reaching experience is her almost thirty years lasting cooperation with Gianni Versace, where she played a crucial role in setting standards with regard to the presentation and illustration of the house's fashion and home collections. She is the author of the best-selling title Fashion Illustration and Design by Promopress.
CONTENTS INTRODUCTION. ORTHOGONAL AND AXONOMETRIC PROJECTION. Essential components of axonometry. Cutaway drawings. Precise definition of the object. Why take measurements. Scale representation of a ring. Drawings of band and domed rings. Orthogonal projection and different axonometric views. A domed ring with stones. Dimensional drawing. Precious metals. LIGHT AND COLOUR OF METALS. Yellow gold using pastels. Yellow gold using Pantone markers. Yellow gold using mixed media. Yellow gold using Adobe Illustrator. White gold using pastels. White gold using Pantone markers. White gold using tempera. White gold using a computer. Rose gold using pastels. Rose gold using Pantone markers. Rose gold using tempera. Rose gold using a computer. Chiaroscuro sketches of basicsolids: the cube. FINISHES (Polished. Satin. Brushed. Sandblasted. Hammered). SHADOWS AND CHIAROSCURO. Cuboid surfaces. Chiaroscuro sketches of basic solids: the sphere. Concave surfaces. Convex surfaces. Domed surfaces. Chiaroscuro sketches of basic. lids: the cone. Conical surfaces. Pyramidal surfaces. Chiaroscuro sketches of basicsolids: the cylinder. Tubular and cylindrical surfaces. Granules. Filigree. Organic. GREECE - THE ANCIENT WORLD. ENAMELWORK AND TECHNIQUES. Cloisonné. Champlevé. Translucent enamel on bas-relief. En ronde bosse. Painted enamel. Plique-a-jour, cathedral enamel. Studies of enamelled jewellery. BYZANTIUM AND ITS EMPIRE. GRAPHIC REPRESENTATION OF GEMSTONES AND CUTS. Cabochon cut semi-precious transparent gemstones. Colouring gemstones. Aquamarine. Quartz. Opal. Tourmaline. Amethyst. Amber. Citrine. Crystal. THE MIDDLE AGES. CABOCHON CUT SEMI-PRECIOUS OPAQUE GEMSTONES. Agate. Tiger's eye. Turquoise. Lapis lazuli. Malachite. Pearls. Pearl varieties. Coral. THE RENAISSANCE. CHARACTERISTICS OF DIAMOND. Cut. Carats. Colour and clarity. Origins of the Diamond. Diamond varieties. THE SEVENTEENTH CENTURY AND THE BAROQUE. PRECIOUS GEMSTONES. Emerald. Ruby. Sapphire. THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY. SPECIAL CUTS. Drop cut. Asscher cut. Baguette cut. Princess cut. Emerald cut. Oval cut. Marquise or navette cut. Heart cut. Rose cut. Trillion cut. Cushion cut diamond. The gemstone family. THE AGE OF EMPIRE GRAPHICS OF GEMSTONE SETTINGS. Bezel. Flush. Channel. Bar. Pavé. Prong. Pearl Peg. GRAPHICS OF CLASPS. Box. Lobster and springring. Side pin. Side spring. Adjustable. Bayonet and sliding side pin. Safety pins. Hair pins. Necklace fasteners. Earring closures. Snap post. Screw back clip fastener. Lever back fastener. Butterfly. Clip on. ART NOUVEAU-BELLE EPOQUE GRAPHICS OF CHAINS. Rolo. Anchor. Groumette. Other types of groumette. Venetian. Foxtail. Korean. Rope. Bead. Gas pipe. Creative chains. Charms. ALTERNATIVE MATERIALS. Celluloid. Bakelite. Murano glass. Lampworking. Murrine. Ebony. Ivory. Steel. Titanium. Meteorite. Bronze and brass THE SECOND HALF OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY. Ring sizes. Bracelet sizes. PARURE AND DEMI-PARURE. Study of colour variants in a demi-parure. Study of colour and materials in a parure SIZES AND ERGONOMICS. Rigid necklaces. Neck and ear front view. Ear and neck drawn in profile. Neck, ear and hand side view. Necklace lengths. Positioning the hands. Perspective view of a bangle. Left and right ear. Studies of earrings and their fit. Jewellery and bijoux. MEN'S JEWELLERY. Articulated link chains. Plate bracelet. Modular bracelet. Signet rings. Tie pins. Tie Bar. Tie Clip. How to wear a tie pin. Cufflinks. Modular pendants. Men's parure. Watches.