Queer Style

First published in 2013, Queer Style was ahead of its time. It was the first book to address the cultural, political, and material histories of clothes as signs and markers of gender and sexual identity, and remains key reading for scholars and students across fashion studies and the humanities more broadly. Now, 10 years later, the authors have revisited their classic work and updated it to examine the function of subcultural dress within queer communities and the mannerisms and messages that are used as signifiers of identity.

Adam Geczy is an artist and writer who teaches at the University of Sydney, Australia. Vicki Karaminas is Professor of Fashion at Massey University New Zealand. She holds an honorary Professorial position at the University of Sydney and is Honorary fellow of the University of Melbourne, Australia.

List of Illustrations Acknowledgements Introduction 1. The Meaning of Style Between Classic and Queer Winckelmann and the Suppressed Homoerotism in Modernist style A Selective History of Non-queer, Standard, Straight and Classic dressing 2.. Lesbian Style: From Mannish Women to Lipstick Dykes Mannish Lesbians and Salon Dandies Lesbian Bar Culture of the Forties and Fifties Feminist Androgyny and Anti Style Cross Dressing and Androgynous Style Designer Dykes and Lesbian Chic Lesbian Visibility in the Twentieth Century 3. Designer Dykes and Lesbian Visibility The L Word and Generation Q Lesbian Chic The Pleasures of Looking. Lesbians in film and media Hip Hop Lesbian Style 4. Early Modern Gay Men's Styles Macaroni's and Fops Dandies and Aesthetes. The Early Days of Queer Style Wilde, Posing, and the 'Birth' of Homosexuality Paris Dandies, Aesthetes and Decadents 5. Modern and Contemporary Gay Men's Styles The Years Pending World War II Artistic Bent. Warhol, Glam and Pop Gay Activism and Gay pride Contemporary Queer: Hard to Say 6. Kiss of the Whip. Bondage, Discipline and Sado-Masochism, or BDSM Style Military Uniforms and the Gestapo Clips, Clamps Leather, and Accessories The Mainstreaming of BDSM 7. Drag Kings and Queens Dames and Queens Drag and Artistic Practice Drag as Politics Drag Balls Kinging and Club Culture RuPaul Supermodel 8. Trans* and Fluid Style By Way of a Geneology Against Categorization Transgender Celebrity Fluid Fashion and Style 9. Crossing Genders, Crossing Cultures Japanese Dandy Style Albanian Sworn Virgins The Hijra: An Alternative Gender Role in India Fa'fafine and Polynesian Gender Crossing Two Spirit First Nation Kathoey and Tom Boys of Thailand Conclusion: Against Justification Bibliography Index