Memories of Dress

Memories of clothing feature prominently in auto/biographies, yet traditionally they have not been subjected to the same level of academic scrutiny as other sources. Memories of Dress redresses this imbalance by bringing auto/biographical memories to the centre of a new methodology for understanding fashion history, material culture, and other disciplines. Presenting a comprehensive overview of theoretical and practice-based approaches, the book invites readers to explore the relations between clothing and memory through diverse examples ranging from oral histories of Madchester men and Hungarian socialist sewing, to a quilt-making autoethnography into the complexities of American racial heritage and imagined memories within museum collections. Chapters by leading and emerging experts consider the ways in which dress is remembered and the ways that memories and nostalgia in turn influence everyday dress practices, unpicking the meanings and motivations-both collective and public, personal and private-behind the clothes we wear in different times, places and life stages; and the impact of class, gender, ethnicity, and disability on material identities. Uniquely weaving personal recollection with theory, this multidisciplinary book offers new ways of understanding clothing, material culture, and memory.

Alison Slater is Senior Lecturer in Design History at Manchester School of Art, Dept. of Art & Performance, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK. She has contributed to the journal Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty and her PhD research features in the BBC Radio 4 documentary Rags to Riches. Susan Atkin is Deputy Division Head for Fashion Design at Manchester Fashion Institute, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK. She was previously the designer-owner of womenswear label Electricity. Elizabeth Kealy-Morris is Senior Lecturer in Dress and Belonging at Manchester Fashion Institute, Manchester Metropolitan University, UK. Her research into body dressing work has featured in The Guardian.

List of Illustrations List of Contributors Acknowledgements Introduction by Alison Slater, Susan Atkin, and Elizabeth Kealy-Morris Concepts 1. Personal Objects and Dress as Instruments for Anchoring the Self, Remembering the Past, and Enhancing Well-Being by Soljana Çili Histories 2. Remembering Respectability: Collective Memories of Working-Class Dress in Wartime Lancashire by Alison Slater 3. Memories of Making: Home Sewing in Socialist Hungary by Zsofia Juhasz 4. Nostalgia, Myth and Memories of Dress: The Cultural Memory of Madchester by Susan Atkin Objects 5. Wardrobes and Soundtracks: Resources for Memories of Youth by Jo Jenkinson 6. Ken Tynan's Tommy Nutter Jacket as 'Materialized Memory' by Ben Whyman 7. Soft Murmurings: Sensing Memories in Collections of Dress by Jane Webb Practices 8. 'The American Look': Memories of Not Fitting In by Elizabeth Kealy-Morris 9. Black/White/Yellow by Elizabeth Chin 10. Cloth(ing) Memories: Rituals of Grieving by Lesley Beale References Index