On the Shores of the Caspian

Sketches on the Shores of the Caspian is the product of the author's journey through the Caspian region as part of an expedition headed by his cousin James Brant, the British Consul at Erzeroum. Holmes provides a wonderfully intimate portrait of the country. Written in a very accessible style it nonetheless provides a wealth of detail on the towns, the climate, trade, military, people and culture as well as valuable information on the Russian presence in the region at the time. This very scarce volume is here published with a new Introduction by leading scholar of Asia, Morris Rossabi, Professor of Inner Asian History, Weatherhead East Asian Institute, Columbia University and Distinguished Professor of History, Queens College, The City University of New York.

Sir William Richard Holmes (1822-82) was born in Northern Ireland in 1822. In 1841 he was appointed to the consulate at Erzeroum in Turkey, in 1846 he became Vice Consul at Samsoon, and by 1860 was British Consul in Bosnia. He was part of the commission that settled the boundary with Herzegovina and was knighted in 1877.

Introduction by Morris Rossabi
Chapter 1
Departure from Tabreez - Our party - Borringe - Character of the mountains - The Adgee Chai - Khodjeh - Departure from Khodjeh - Position of Villages - Kuzi Kapan - The inhabitants - Ke-khoda - Mountains of Karadaugh - Old caravanserai - The roads - Ahar - Mines of Urghurt - Copper mines - Seyeed Khan - Tomb of Shahaub-u-deen - Superstition
Chapter 2
Departure from Ahar - Gheun-deughdee - Kaleh-bashee - Game - Arrival at Meezaum - Shah-sevens - Robbery - Savalaun Daugh - Mishkeen - Arrival at Loree - Dismal weather - Leave Loree - Soomaree - Ruined castle - The Shah-seven tribe - Their numbers in Mishkeen - Ardebeel - The Vekeel
Chapter 3
Visit to the Vekeel - Tombs of the Sheikh Suffee-u-deen and Shah Ismael - The fortress - Turkish and Persian manners - Prisoners in the fort - Legend - Description of Ardebeel - Departure - Arrive at Nemeen - A proincess - Description of Nemeen - Shinghian Kaleh - Descend the mountains - Tent dwelling tibes - Scenery - Kishveh - Nightfall - Reach Astara
Chapter 4
Astara - The river - Cutting iron - Ghileh-keran - Revenue of Meer Caussim Khan's district - Fishing - The Caspian - Costume of the peasantry - Difficulty of obtaining information - Departure from Astara - Shells - Scenery of the coast - Arrival at Hehvee - Wild hog - Names of rivers - The Kerghanagh-rood - Village of Kerghanagh - A kind invitation - Ferrajoollah Beg - Civility - Persian dinner - Persian appetite - Royal tiger - Wild beasts inhabiting Gheelaun - Persian manner of eating - Leave Kerghanagh - A Tauliah house - Mode of collecting attendants - The Kummer - Rivers forded during the day
Chapter 5
Approach Enzellee - Present from the governor - Receive visits - Persian window - An invitation - Mohamed Ameen Khan - Soldiery - Military resources of Gheelaun - Calling the muster roll - The Admiral of the Caspian - Review - Cannon and foundry at Enzellee - Bust - Visit to the Admiral - A satisfactory conclusion - The lake at Enzellee - Fishes - Boats - Pelicans - Rain - Pheasanr shooting - Enzellee - Its trade - Its revenue - Price of provisions - Departure from Peree Bazar - Horses - The road to Resht - The Mongodeh River
Chapter 6
Hadgee Mohamed Allee - Hadgee Meer Ismael - A Persian Connoisseur in drawing - Superstition regarding the pig - Resht - Its population - Bazar - Style of the buildings - Revenue - Silk - Mulberry plantations - Annual amount of silk - Manner of exportation - Obtain a bath - A wild beast - Eclipse of the moon
Chapter 7
Departure from Resht - Nature of the country - The Sefeed rood - Kesoun - My white hat - Mahomed Allee Khan - Lahijan - Estimates of population - Revenue - Visit the governor - Leave Lahijan - The old causeway - Scenery - Arrival at Langarood - Meer Aboo Talib Khan's summer house - Revenue - The Langarood river - Wild duck catchers - A predicament - Colony of Russian fisherman - Particulars of the fishery - Caviars - Dried fish - Isinglass - Rent of the fishery - Geography of the coast - Rising and falling of the Caspian - Picturesque bridge - Remains of Elton's ship
Chapter 8
Arrival ar Rood-i-air - An accident - Hidden treasure - Description of Gheelaun - Scenery of the coast - Gipsies -Arrive at Surimroo Curious patten - Precautions against wild beasts - Aub-i-gherm - Rivers - Azad-mahee fishery -Zuvvar - Curious fireplace - Uzzuf Sultaun - Reach Abbasabad - Wild boar - Rivers along the coast - A bear - Arrive at Kerparoo - Districts of Tennacorben, Kellauristauk and Koojoor - Scenery - Serrodin Kellau - Method of stacking rice
Chapter 9
Continue our route - Rivers along the coast - Noor - Reach Izzut-eh - Sugar - Marshy forest - The Allem-rood - The Harrauz - Swimming the horses over - A scene of confusion - Talligi-air - A merry Christmas! - Wintry appearance of the country - Road to Aumil - The district of Aumil - Brisge - Mausoleum of Sey Ghwaum-u-deen - Iron mines of Allisherood - Shah A