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The story of street food in London, from medieval city to global metropolis - and of the women, men, boys, and girls who provided the capital with this vital service.
Charlie Taverner is a social historian of food and cities. After receiving a PhD from Birkbeck, University of London, he held an Economic History Society postdoctoral fellowship at the Institute of Historical Research. He is currently a research fellow on the ERC-funded FoodCult project, based at Trinity College Dublin. His research has appeared in journals such as History Workshop and Urban History. Previously, Charlie worked as a business and agricultural journalist, starting out on the staff of the magazine Farmers Weekly.
Acknowledgements
List of illustrations
Note to the reader
Introduction: Hawkers and the history of London
Part 1: People
Fishwives and costermongers
All sorts of Londoners
The status of street sellers
Hawkers at home
Part 2: Workers
Gutter merchants
Aristocracy of the kerb
The costermonger class
Part 3: Street food
Garden city
Perishing commodities
As regular as the weather permits
Moveable feasts
The metropolitan diet
Part 4: Markets
Liberty of the markets
In defence of hawkers
Friends of the poor
Part 5: Retailers
About the streets
Keeping score
Carnivals of shopping
Part 6: Tools
Shops on their heads
Barrow wheelers
The coster's companion
Part 7: Traffic
Broken pavements
Around the clock
Crossing the road
Part 8: Nuisances
The costermongers' charter
Infamous wretches
Preventing free passage
Part 9: Voices
Tortures of the ear
The crying art
Declaring the seasons
The end of the cries?
Epilogue: The return of street food
Curating street food
Hawkers past and present
Notes
Appendix: Identifying street sellers, 1600-1825
Index
